Post-Socialist Realism:

Old Shades of Grey

As Krakow attempts a speedy move to the West, it continues to be hindered by remnants of its Communist past. The architecture throughout Krakow habitually reminds its tourists and residents that the Socialism left behind its grand statues, grand buildings, and grand problems. Besides having the memory of Communist Socialism, Krakow is still dealing with an earlier past. If the architecture isn't Socialist Realism, it's certainly prewar. The facades are thus divided by prewar, interwar, Austro-Hungarian and medieval periods.

The combination of these styles creates a beautiful and strange sight throughout the city. The greatest change from the last 15 years is most evident in the oldest part - the main Market Square. This is by far the most modern, progressive and tourist based portion of Krakow. At the same time, it holds the oldest buildings, which predate 10th century CE to those built during the 20th century. This is also clearly the most renovated and well-preserved part of the city as the Market Square is the magnet for Krakow's tourists, youth, artists, and cultural events.

Radiating from the center like a spider web, the city plan resembles a post-soviet state trying to move forward as its heavy Socialist-era architecture leaves it feeling grey. Socialist Realist statues, grocery stores and milk bars remain a sight for socialist nostalgia or geeky historians of Soviet culture. But these relics have come a long way from their anti-capitalist ideal of bare shelves.

In my childhood, stores were bare from the outside in. The covered windows concealed the vacuum of emptiness inside. Now they are bare only on the outside, standing like remnants of the past feigning the emptiness that used to await long lines of hungry comrades.

Krakow's challenge at present is not the change from its socialist past, but leaving behind the exterior impressions that socialism burned into the country's conscience like a brand. As long as this mental imprint remains in one of Poland's fairy-tale tourist attraction, the grey stone will linger.

January 20, 2007