Breathing-in Krakow

Krakow in January was unusually warm for Poland. One had to adjust daily, if not hourly, between winter clothes and strange spring attire trying to gage the new temperatures. Krakow in March was freezing as the last remnants of winter continued to shed their final frosty storms to prove that this is still a part of the cold vodka drinking Eastern European territory. Krakow in April would range from cold to hot, letting the girls and boys run around in their summer clothing only to pull out their winter jackets the following day despite the continued gleaming sun and the blue sky. So then it was difficult to understand just what the climate, atmosphere, and aura of Krakow could be with its ever changing and unpredictable or unseasonable temperatures. The flow of Krakow's tourists was quite similar to the weather. Supposedly in past years the city was filled with Germans and the sound of the German language by springtime. This year, Krakow was filled with every language imaginable and the season had little bearing on the constant flow of foreigners, tourists, students or expatriates. French tourists grumbled as they had to use the more commonly known English. Italians and Spaniards spoke loudly in all the cafes, often acting as the stereotypes of Americans, while American tour groups flooded the streets in their giant packs of blond, blue eyed girls and cool teenage boys, all beaming with absolute assurance that everyone could understand them. As for me, I roamed the city aimlessly trying to absorb the sound of Polish, to understand the people and their traditions, and to make sense of the incongruity between the modern and traditional lifestyle amongst the youth.

In January couples would meet each other with Roses and sweet kisses in the middle of the Market Square. By the end of April, such formalities were obliterated and the city covered with couples attached to one another at the mouth, chest, stomach, arms, legs and almost every part of the body on benches, trams, sidewalks, and in the Center. As the Polish language became more comprehensible, having conversations with shopkeepers, students, foreigners, and anyone who was interested in speaking with me became a daily hobby in order to absorb the culture of Krakow. Sometimes it was enough just to sit in cafés eavesdropping on other people's conversations or watching friends greet each other before delving into deep philosophical or worldly discussions.

Taking tours for residents of Krakow allowed me to delve a bit further into the culture. For example, I learned that it is never wise to underestimate the value and beauty of the Polish fields; giving a traditional Polish tour guide as much trouble as possible and irritating him makes him quite jolly and happy by the end of the tour; even at the top of a mountain or 12 levels underground in a salt mine will you find a church with a Catholic mass around noon; to hear an honest opinion about Poland, one only needs to compliment the country or its people and the response can often reveal some of the country’s real problems; finally, it is never wise to repeat such an opinion as only the Poles bear that privilege. Formality and customs remain a large part of the Polish culture, and while a tourist may be forgiven for misunderstanding these customs, respectfulness and an eagerness to understand Poland is greatly appreciated.

It quickly became clear through the overwhelming Romantic era atmosphere of Pan Tadeusz, thick hot chocolate and candles in every café and restaurant, that Krakow wants to preserve its past and yet progress towards the modern lifestyle of cell phones, high speed wireless internet, and satellite technology. Surprisingly, Krakow is quite successful with the latter. The technology throughout the city and lifestyle is certainly up to par with the West, yet even the simple outlook of gender roles and the ever predominant problems of stereotypes leaves it a bit further in the past then it realizes. The numerous paintings or sculptures of Jews as merchants or counting money certainly gave the impression that this is the predominant stereotype of Jews. Likewise, the empty dance floors, even in the most popular gay bars, suggest that being near or advertising one's homosexuality is to be desired even in such places.

Poland’s role as a part of Europe is greatly disagreed upon between the tourists and residents. Any European from countries such as Germany, Spain, Sweden, France or the UK will adamantly maintain that Poland is not Europe in any respect. Most tourists enjoy the romantic atmosphere, the struggling Polish economy, the ancient European architecture, yet they grumble that the hospitality and Slavic language leaves Poland behind as a part of Central Europe at best, with predominant traits of Eastern European poverty and backwardness. As this connotation reminds Poland of its Eastern and rather unfriendly neighbors, not to mention the poverty and corruption of Eastern Europe, such opinions make many Poles more anxious to prove themselves as Europeans while still priding themselves for their Slavic Polish aristocratic peasant culture rooted in the very fields that the country is named for.

With all these eccentric qualities of Krakow, it became clear that Poland is a place for thinking and contemplating. Knowing the language made the contemplation a part of everyday life as even the local newspapers displayed the contradictions of my surroundings. My favorite Polish films and cafés were filled with romantic notions and airs of aristocratic nobility. The youth often claimed to be secular, yet the ever-present guilt for not attending mass or their deep questions of morality and mortality displayed that even the most progressive and secular youth has difficulty evading the presence of the Catholic faith. Polish traditions haunt and at the same time make them feel more secure in their common identity.

From my few months of living in Poland and learning to communicate with tourists and its inhabitants, I learned that this is a country rich with history, culture and ambition. The self-respect and determination to prove itself as a forward nation is leading Poland towards a higher status within the European Union. This is also a country where a foreigner will always feel a foreigner, regardless of their Polish language or desire to fit into the country. From life in Krakow, it seems that Poland does not want a melting pot that Western Europe is striving for and the United States partially achieved, and does not wish to integrate itself any further then to advance its status to a 1st world nation and respectively its level of life. Krakow is making itself a giant museum for tourists in the center, while remaining a Slavic traditional country of villages and old dreams of aristocracy in its outskirts.